Mittwoch, 30. Mai 2007

Íf Liberty triumphs, Millionnaire will be back on next week´

It may nor may not have made the headlines back home, but Venezuela is undergoing a considerable degree of turmoil at the moment, principally caused by the government´s decision to close down RCTV (Radio Caracas Television- strange name) on the grounds that it supported a coup attempt in 2002 and frequently incites violence and unrest. To some extent, I think these claims are justified - indeed, the executives of the station met very closely with the coup leaders at the time and broadcast instructions and encouragement to anti-government demonstrators, refusing to screen scenes of pro-Chavez protests or to broadcast the news that he had been released from military custody and had resumed power. On the other hand, savage criticism has been made in the international press of the impact upon freedom of speech and the right to criticise.

Notwithstanding this, last Sunday - the last day before RCTV´s broadcast license expires - was an orgy of self-pitying promotion. Cheesy taglines like ´if liberty triumphs, Milionario (yes, their version of Who Wants to be A Millionnaire´) will be back on Wednesday´were broadcast, interspersed with clips of hilariously bad variety shows from the 60s to underline the station´s imposing presence in Venezuelan cultural history. Ever-mindful of contractual obligations, they continued to screen commercial breaks well into their last hour.

Now, clearly the question of the potential anti-democratic implications of deeply politicised and highly concentrated media power is a crucial one, and its not going to be answered today, since I am typing furiously in an internet cafe just by the Plaza de Chacaito, where large crowds are massing for another protest and I expect the place to be closed soon. These protests have the happy side effect of getting me half-days all this week, since all classes are cancelled by my employers. This is a plus, since I am getting paid for doing no work. On the other hand, it does impede my attempts to find a flat, which I need to do by Saturday. So it´s all somewhat inconvenient.

The protests have been largely peaceful from what I have seen, and the police have taken a reasonably restrained approach at least during the day, but there have been reports of the use of tear gas and rubber bullets at night. IN the area where I am temporarily staying, El LLanito, locals are showing their disapproval of the government´s actions by banging on saucepans, ringing bells, and knocking spoons against the gates of their apartment buildings (yes, its a gated community).
This gave me the horrible feeling that I had strayed into some kind of Latin Belfast.

Once I learn more Spanish, I´ll be able to tell you more about what TVES (Venezuelan Social Television, or RCTV´s replacement) is saying. If it lasts that long - my sixth sense is telling me that the government may have misjudged the balance of forces rather badly on this occasion.

Montag, 28. Mai 2007

´Why Venezuela? Why me?

Initially, I probably wanted to go to China to teach English - at least when the idea occurred to me a few years ago. I was certainly absolutely fascinated by China as an adolescent and tried to learn the language on a few abortive occasions. Indeed, who knows, I may end up there yet. However, due to the fact that I hate the idea of tying myself into a year´s contract, plus the fact that every twenty-something gap year westerner under the sun appears to be flocking to China these days, I started considering the alternatives a lot more.
I guess Venezuela seems appealing partly just because of the attraction of Latin America in general - ever since I picked up Gabriel Garcia Marquez´s ´100 years of Solitude´ aged 18 or so, it´s had a kind of magical, distant, fantastic appeal. Plus,for tbose of a certain type of political conviction, Latin America has undoubtedly been the region where it seems that maybe, tentatively, there are signs of the breakthrough of an alternative conception of democracy, politics and society - one which moves away from the kind of neoliberal, US-dominated model so often presented as the only alternative to those of us in the developed west. Hugo Chavez´ Venezuela and perhaps parts of Lula´s Brazil are furthest along on the road to what you might term ´21st century socialism´ - or as some would say, old-style authoritarianism- and so for any would-be interested observer with time on their hands, you can hardly find anywhere in the world better for studying the potential of new, and, perhaps, more participatory forms of democratic and - whisper it - socialist government under laboratory conditions.
Hence, here I am. Tomorrow, I´ll update you on how it has been living here for all of a week now.

First post

Hi Kids.


This is a blog set up to record my adventures in the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela (which may extend throughout Latin America, or, who knows, elsewhere).
It´s mainly intended for family and friends, but on the offchance that some other random surfer stumbles upon it at 4AM, with dawn breaking, and insomnia showing no sign of receding (I´ve been there), here is some background information.

I´m 25 years old and originally from Glasgow, Scotland. After accumulating a couple of degrees as well as some experience in the lower reaches of the new Blairite service economy, I decided to turn my hand to the wonders of EFL (English as a Foreign Language) teaching. Being, by nature, someone who doesn´t particularly like the idea of teaching, not least the mammoth TEFl ndustry, this represents more of a stop-gap career stagepost for me, rather than some kind of vocation. Notwithstanding this, it is an excellent way to get about the world for little more than a couple hundred dollars and a fairly robust sense of humour. So, a month´s hard-won CELTA certificate in hand, acquired from the Randolph School of English in Edinburgh, and I found myself pouring over the world wide web for jobs. Initial negotiations with Moscow and Shanghai threatened to bear fruit, and I roamed the world via Craiglist. However, for reasons which I intend to explain, I was finally convinced to give Venezuela a shot. Accordingly, here we are.

I don´t know how to hyperlink. This will be another skill I can learn (blogger seems to be set to German in this internet cafe apparently). I am minded to end this post here so as to check if the earlier hyperlink to the Randolph School of English worked. In my next one I may explain a little more about why I am here and what the rioting and gunshots and suchlike last night were all about.

Good to keep your audience hanging, no?